Backstage at A/W 2012 runways, hair stylists whipped out their teasing combs and volumizing products with full fervor to sculpt grandiose hair artistry. The bouffant has always had a classic, vintage vibe, but these new scruffy versions have a modern elegant air.
At Carolina Herrera
The juxtaposition of contrasts -- massive volume held back by a thin minimalist black band -- was the work of master mane manipulator Orlando Pita. It was a sophisticated combination; both classic and dramatic at the same time.
At Oscar de la Renta
Pita was the man backstage at de la Renta’s show too. He created the teased-and-tucked-under bob for the ultra feminine de la Renta girl. If you can’t get your hands on the original hair band, this is begging to be a D.I.Y project.
At Dsquared2
The Dsquared 2 runway was a time portal to the sixties. “It was all about the homecoming queen,” said hairstylist Sam McKnight on his website, “This was hair for the girls who wanted to catch the eye of the bad boys -- think a modern, sexy take on Tamla Motown hair.”
At Moschino
The sixties provide inspiration once again, this time to hairstylist Odile Gilbert. For Moschino, she created supersized versions of the traditional French twist (winged eyeliner et al and reminiscent of the late Amy Winehouse). Gilbert accessorized the look with large black bands tied into bows.
At Rodarte
The scene stealers were undoubtedly the starry hair pins, but windswept volume underneath was also quite inspired. Gilbert followed NARS’ James Kaliardos’s directive telling the story of a girl in the Australian Outback caught in a dust storm and created textured, asymmetrical, side-parted faux bobs.
5 steps to a modern bouffant
In time for the party season, Mumbai-based hairstylist Placid Braganza tells us how to get gravity-defying volume that’ll withstand dancing and late nights too.
“Start with a little bit of product in the hair,” says Braganza, “so that it holds up better. Nothing that has a lot of conditioning or shine will work; matte is the way to go." He recommends Sebastian Thickefy Foam applied all over and blast dried.
“Back combing works best on the crown area,” he says, so start with a radial section -- a horseshoe shaped section that goes from temple to temple.
“Combs are not a good option anymore,” says Braganza, “They’re tools of the past.” He recommends using wooden brushes that are specially created for teasing hair.
Lift smaller sections of hair and hold them tight at a 90 degree angle from the head. Hold the brush at a slight angle and tease the hair using quick short strokes. When teasing the back portion you can tease the whole hair shaft, but as you move to the front section back comb only at the roots.
Use a little bit of hairspray to strengthen every section that you back comb. “Ideally at this time, don’t use a thick hairspray but a brushable, workable hairspray,” he recommends. Try Zero Gravity or Re-shaper both by Sebastian Professionals. Tip: While using hairspray, always spray from a distance, else it’ll leave a visible path on your hair.
Et voila! There you have it: runway-ready hair.
YOU SHOULD ALSO SEE: Celebrity inspiration: Bridal updos
YOU SHOULD ALSO SEE: How to: Care for and style short hair
YOU SHOULD ALSO SEE: 2 new hairstyles from NYFW runways
YOU SHOULD ALSO SEE: How to: Hair at Payal Khandwala’s LFW show
