You’ve likely heard of the classic and the Brazilian waxes, but those aren’t the only bikini wax types on the menu. You can also remove your down-there hair with the French, for example, or the leave-no-strand-behind Hollywood, if you dare.
Aside from choosing one of these bikini wax styles, there are also more practical aspects to consider: Like, is it really okay to rip out your pubic hair? Does it hurt? How should you care for this delicate area before and after your appointment? It’s natural to be a little confused and intimidated by the whole thing, Mona Gohara, MD, an associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine, tells SELF.
To put your mind at ease—or at least give it to you straight—we asked experts to explain some of the most common bikini wax types and share their best prep and aftercare tips to ensure the hair removal process is as safe and smooth as possible.
How painful is a bikini wax? And what’s the best way to prep for one?
We won’t mince words: Especially if it’s your first time, it’ll probably hurt like a mother. After all, we’re talking about ripping out hair from the root in one of the most sensitive areas of your body.
“No matter what type of wax—hard or soft—is used, yanking hairs out of their follicles can be pretty painful,” Jessica Ingles, licensed esthetician and founder of Bare Beauty Wax Supply, tells SELF. “Nine times out of 10, though, clients say it wasn’t as bad as they thought it would be.” Plus there are a few things you can do (and not do) beforehand to minimize the discomfort of the waxing experience and keep your skin safe:
When someone is going to be up close and personal with your crotch, you may feel compelled to groom first. But you actually want to do the opposite and let your pubic hair grow out for at least six weeks before your appointment, Agnes Gilson, licensed esthetician and owner of Waxing With Aggy in Washington, DC, tells SELF.
Basically, the wax needs something to grab onto for an effective pull. Everyone’s hair-growth speed is different, but for reference, we’re talking about leaving the length of a grain of rice or, to be more precise, a quarter of an inch, per Gilson and Ingles.
Gilson also recommends physically exfoliating the area by dry brushing or using a gentle body scrub a few days before your appointment. This helps to remove dead skin cells and unclog hairs trapped underneath the skin’s surface, she says, leading to smoother results and a lower likelihood of getting stuck with an ingrown hair on your bikini line. Just don’t brush or scrub aggressively, or else you might irritate the area before the hot wax even comes into play.
The night before (or day of) your session, it’s best to avoid drinking, since alcohol can thin your blood, Marisa Garshick, MD, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Cornell-New York Presbyterian Medical Center, tells SELF. “Alcohol is a vasodilator, which means it increases your blood flow to the area, making the skin more sensitive,” she says. “It can also make you more susceptible to bruising.” So if you’re considering having a glass of wine to calm your nerves, know that it might actually increase your discomfort instead.
Taking an over-the-counter pain reliever 30 minutes before your appointment can make the experience more comfortable; Tylenol (acetaminophen) is the best option, according to Dr. Gohara. That’s because nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) like ibuprofen (Advil), naproxen (Aleve), and aspirin “can thin the blood, so there’s the risk of bruising more easily, especially on the inner thighs,” she explains.
Dr. Gohara also recommends over-the-counter topical numbing creams or sprays containing lidocaine, which can temporarily block nerve signals. Applying these types of products to the outer bikini area (never inside the vagina!) 30 minutes to an hour before you get waxed can reduce discomfort, she says. (It’s a good idea to check in with the person who will be doing the waxing first, though, and to do a patch test of the product beforehand, in case you have a bad reaction.)
What are the different types of bikini wax shapes?
“Generally speaking, all wax shapes and techniques can be considered safe if they’re done properly and care is taken by a professional to minimize infection and irritation,” Dr. Garshick says. That’s why it’s so important to go to a trained esthetician with plenty of experience. (You can ask about their credentials, like their license and how long they’ve been waxing, before your appointment, as SELF previously reported.)
Here, the experts we spoke with explain some of the different shapes you can choose from, depending on the level of hair removal you’re looking for—and whether you have a vulva or a penis.
A traditional bikini wax focuses on tidying up the strands around the inner thigh crease (or whatever isn’t covered by your underwear) to create a neat outline. On a more technical level, “it involves removing hair about two finger spaces outside of the panty line,” per Gilson. Think of it as touching up what you’ve already got.
You know the landing strip that an airplane, well, lands on? The French wax looks kind of similar. Most of the hair on the front of the pubic bone (mons pubis) and along the outer part of the lips (labia) is removed, leaving behind a thin rectangular “strip” of fuzz in the middle. You won’t be completely bare, but you definitely aren’t going to see anything poking out in even the tiniest of swimsuit bottoms or, yep, thongs. Also, you don’t necessarily have to get a rectangular shape. If you’re feeling a little triangle (which Ingles calls a “martini glass”), for instance, or a heart, by all means, request it, she says.
If you have a vulva and you’re looking to go totally bare, request the full Brazilian. Inspired by the itty-bitty bikinis lining the beaches of Brazil, this type of wax style removes pretty much all of your pubic hair: on the front, along the sides, between the cheeks, you name it.
As the name implies, the mini is a step below the traditional Brazilian. With this variation, you’ll be completely hair-free in the front near your pubic bone and, if you want, on the labia, too. The main difference is that any strands in the back will remain, making this an ideal option for anyone who doesn’t want their butt touched.
Very similar to the full Brazilian, the Hollywood leaves no nook or cranny unwaxed—yes, that includes the hairs around your butt and, uniquely, the inner folds of your labia. If you’re thinking that doesn’t sound like a smart idea, you’d be correct.
Though the Hollywood is a popular ask, Dr. Gohara cautions against smearing hot wax near those internal regions, since the tissue is so thin and more susceptible to damage. “Think about somebody waxing your eyeball or the inside of your mouth or any mucosal area,” Dr. Gohara says. Enough said.
Hey, bikini waxes aren’t just for people with vulvas. A full Brazilian for folks with penises will remove hair around the lower abdomen, above the shaft, and even on the scrotum (yes, the balls will be bald). If you’re clenching your nether regions just reading this, we’re here to remind you that such a sensitive body part requires careful attention (duh). That’s why, again, you should only visit a licensed and experienced esthetician—ideally, one who specializes in these types of waxes.
Okay, maybe the D-zilian sounds a little too intense (torturous?) for you. In that case, you could opt for a less invasive version that resembles a standard bikini wax: Your scrotum and butt will be left alone and the main focus will be on the strands along your inner thighs and lower abdomen. The goal, ultimately, is to remove any hair that would be visible if you were to wear skimpy briefs or a more revealing swimsuit.
How to care for your skin after a bikini wax
Arguably, what’s more important than what you do prewax is your aftercare routine. It’s pretty much inevitable to experience at least some inflammation, which might show up as redness (depending on your skin tone), itchiness, and/or bumps, Dr. Gohara says.
Mild irritation should dissipate naturally within one to two days, according to Dr. Garshick. If it doesn’t or you notice a more severe reaction like pustules, painful cysts, or skin flaking, see a primary care doctor or dermatologist as soon as you can, she adds, as these can be signs of an allergic reaction or infection.
To avoid those complications—and feel more comfortable overall—follow these three post-wax steps:
An over-the-counter 1% hydrocortisone cream, which contains anti-inflammatory properties, can help alleviate any discomfort, Dr. Gohara says. Not only will it calm down some of that initial irritation and swelling, but it can also reduce itchiness, which may show up in the days or weeks after your wax, as your hair starts slowly growing back, she adds.
Gym lovers, we know how difficult it can be to take a day off from your precious workouts, but for the sake of your burning loins, sit this one out. Your sweat can mix with any leftover wax residue or bacteria on your skin, which may clog your hair follicles (potentially leading to infection) or exacerbate irritation, Dr. Gohara warns.
If you insist on getting your reps in, the least you can do, per Dr. Gohara, is wear loose-fitting clothes (think flowy athletic shorts instead of tight leggings or going commando in spandex). Otherwise, you won’t just have to worry about the sweat, but also the skin-tight material rubbing on and chafing your raw skin.
You might want to show off your new wax to your partner or fling, and hey, we don’t blame you. Keep in mind, though, that certain sex positions, like missionary or cowgirl, which involve a lot of, um, banging up against each other, can be irritating for people with labia, Dr. Gohara says.
Keeping your pants on for the first day is a smart idea, but that doesn’t mean you have to abstain all week: “Ideally, you could minimize that irritation with other positions that may not be as likely to cause friction,” such as spooning. Oh, and if you shower beforehand, use cool water, since heat can make the area even more sensitive, according to Dr. Gohara
Again, as long as you see a well-trained pro, there’s no “right” or “wrong” choice if you decide to get a bikini wax. This experience is customizable, so pick your fave, prep accordingly, be gentle with yourself afterward, and rock your new look.
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