There are so many things to do in Istanbul. I grew up here and have enjoyed this magical city all my life, but also watched it change with time. . During my childhood, the city was not as crowded as it is now – especially in Beyoglu and Galata, two neighbourhoods where lots of important artists and creatives work and reside. We would go to their studios and enjoy our weekends chatting, drinking and listening to so many stories. Growing up in this vivid, versatile and inspiring environment has enriched my work as a fashion designer in many ways.
Istanbul is a junction of east and west with much diversity in between and each district has its own identity. Some parts of Istanbul are full of heritage and history, while others are totally modern and minimalist. I use these different elements in my clothing collections for Lug von Siga (lugvonsiga.com). I started the label after moving back from Milan, where I worked for many years as a designer. In my imagination, I consider how strong women creatives would be here in Istanbul and how they would dress, including the likes of Frida Kahlo, Agatha Christie and Simone de Beauvoir. I love juxtaposing different cultures and mingling them together with Istanbul.
Things to do in Istanbul
The most interesting and important neighbourhoods in the city are Karakoy, Tophane in the Beyoglu district, Sultanahmet, Nisantasi, Sishane and Galata. First, you should visit the old part of Istanbul to walk through the maze that is the Grand Bazaar and allow yourself to get lost in the hidden corners of history. It spans 61 streets with over 4,000 shops and stalls, and will work up your appetite for a lunch stop at Pandeli restaurant in the Spice Bazaar, which has an amazing view.
Another must-visit is the Dolmabahçe Palace in the Besiktas district, which sits beside the Bosporus and has incredible engraved doors. Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi is one of my favourite museums for contemporary exhibitions, showing works by artists including Marina Abramović and Ai Weiwei, as well as by Claude Monet and Egon Schiele.
Where to shop
Most weekends, I head to Cukurcuma to look around the incredible antique shops and to hear about where each piece comes from, how it is made and how it came to Istanbul. Most of the pieces originating in Anatolia or the Ottoman Empire have interesting stories behind them. One of Istanbul’s best book stores is Patika Kitabevi in Nisantasi, which stocks both Turkish and English titles.
In the same neighbourhood, Fey is a great concept store that sells clothing, homeware and vintage finds, while Midnight Express in Besiktas is one of my favourites for clothing and jewellery. On Sundays, the Feriköy Antika Pazarı flea market is a must-visit, where you can find many rare gems and antiques – don’t forget to buy an evil-eye piece or hand-embroidered bedcover to take home.
Where to eat and drink
In Karakoy, you’ll find plenty of restaurants and coffee houses that are popular local haunts, including Karaköy Lokantası restaurant, which has great mezes and sharing plates. I live and work in Nisantasi and I often head to Hünkar for coffee and pastries for breakfast or lunch. You can’t leave Istanbul without trying the dessert irmik helvasi (semolina halva filled with vanilla ice cream) and Hünkar does it best.
Delicatessen is another place I go to meet friends over coffee or drinks, and when I am in Cukurcuma, a favourite is Cuma after an afternoon of antique hunting. And you should try Turkish coffee in the Grand Bazaar, of course. Arkestra, in Etiler, is a great place to go for an amazing dinner with friends.
The Beyoglu district is where you will find the bulk of our nightlife and bars, and you can see the city in a different light. If you want to feel like a true local, order lahmacun (flatbread topped with minced meat and herbs) and the yogurt-based drink ayran in a local kebab house.
Where to stay
Soho House Istanbul opened in 2015 in the 19th-century Palazzo Corpi in Beyoglu, originally built for an Italian merchant. It has 87 bedrooms housed in a new glass annexe. The interiors retain their ornate frescoes and marble features, and are decorated in a contemporary style that reflects the Soho House brand but is here given a Turkish twist. Rooms cost from around £190 (sohohouse.com).
