Split in two by the fast-running Kura River and overlooked by towering mountains, Tbilisi has been welcoming explorers for centuries thanks to its location, right on the crossroads between Europe and Asia. For a capital city it’s pretty compact, especially when compared to the city sprawl of Istanbul and Cairo, but there’s absolutely no shortage of inspiring things to do, whether you’re visiting for a long-weekend, or a month-long expedition. Tbilisi’s diverse attractions encompass both natural and contemporary haunts, impressive architecture, and a good sprinkle of modern art too.
One of Tbilisi’s main streets, Shota Rustaveli Avenue, is a good starting point when becoming acquainted with the city. Street-side vendors selling fresh pomegranate juice sit beside neon-signed money exchange shops, and it’s on this road that Tbilisi’s Opera, Museum of Fine Arts, and the National Museum are located. Mushrooming out from all directions are a myriad of varied neighbourhoods, each one promising a unique perspective of the city. From the timeworn buildings of Old Tbilisi, with their ornate wooden balconies, hiding impressive courtyards zig-zagged with freshly laundered clothing strung out to dry, to contemporary Vera and its hip residents frequenting arty-cool coffee shops. Further out into the residential, yet beguiling district of Saburtalo, Tbilisi becomes even more intriguing with its row-upon-row of cream-coloured tower blocks, many of them harbouring some of the most impressive modern murals the city has to offer, and the city’s quirky Old Town, which sits just a stone’s throw across the river, home to reclaimed factories and contemporary hotels, is worth seeking out too. A weekend will give you a good introduction to the city, but a week is recommended if you want to visit all of the places on this list.
The best things to do in Tbilisi
1.Hike Mount Mtatsminda
Upon first arriving in any new town or city, it’s always a smart idea to head to the highest point for a sweeping overview of the land below. Tbilisi’s highest point is Mount Mtatsminda and thankfully the hike to the top is stunning. With an accessible trek that starts just a few streets beyond Stamba, one of Tbilisi’s best hotels, the steep but rewarding walk takes in hairpin curves and fragrant pine trees. About half way up, it’s worth stopping to admire the magnificent interiors and mosaics of Mtatsminda Pantheon and its graveyard, where some of Georgia’s most prominent creatives are buried including Nikoloz Baratashvili, one of the first Georgians to fuse European Romanticism with modern nationalism. Just beyond the whimsical church, the pathway snakes back up the hill, morphing into stone steps that make the final ascent slightly easier and giving way to sublime views across the entire city. At the top, perfectly manicured Mtatsminda Park awaits with its rainbow coloured ferris wheel, retro carousels and kooky arcade style games. Weekends see local families and tourists swarm into this nostalgia-inducing wonderland, all eager to indulge in mounds of fluffy cotton candy before taking the overworked funicular back down to the city.
2. Admire the city’s brutalist architecture
While Old Town Tbilisi charms with ornate balconied wooden structures, the newer, more residential parts of town are overflowing with incredible Soviet-era buildings that are sure to impress. Most notable is the photogenic Nutsubidze Sky Bridge, which comprises three looming apartment blocks each connected by one long open-air metal and concrete walkway. This bizarre structure in the Saburtalo district has become somewhat of a beacon to brutalist obsessives; it even has its own coin-operated lift to whizz anyone who wishes to walk across the bridge right up to the 14th floor from where it is located. Equally impressive is George Chakhava and Zurab Jalaghania’s Bank of Georgia and its mind-bending design that features five interlocking concrete forms now covered in creeping ivy. The result is supremely futuristic and unlike anything else I came across in Georgia. But one of my favourite buildings, on the opposite side of town is the gorgeously named Palace of Rituals. This curious postmodern structure fuses two unique spiral blocks with a huge, central metal bell tower. Today, the building is privately owned and for the most part used for wedding ceremonies and various large-scale events.
3. Swim in Lisi lake
There’s no shortage of places to swim in and around the city, but my favourite is Lisi Lake. Just a short bus or taxi ride from the city centre, this place is a world away from the traffic-filled streets of downtown Tbilisi. Open year-round, the quaint lake is surrounded by wildflowers and fragrant low-growing shrubs providing the perfect haven for a plethora of wildlife including turtles, foxes and hares. The lake itself is safe to swim in, and easy to enter since it’s soft underfoot. Sun loungers are available to hire, but a towel on the shoreline will suffice. Cute stalls sell freshly fried sugared doughnuts and Georgia’s famous soda Lagidze Water, but I’d highly recommend walking along the lake’s edge up to Amra, one of Tbilisi’s best restaurants to sample Georgian cuisine at its best with panoramic views across the lake. It’s heavenly at sunset.
4. Watch a performance at Gabriadze Theatre
The world-renowned marionette theatre was conceptualised by Rezo Gabriadze who gained international recognition as a screenwriter, director, artist and puppeteer. Having been profiled by the likes of The New York Times and the BBC, Gabriadze’s productions have toured the globe creating intrigue and bringing joy wherever they go, but there’s no better place to view them than in his hometown and, indeed, his very own theatre. Tickets can be hard to come by so it’s worth checking out the website a few weeks before you plan to visit Tbilisi. If you are lucky enough to snag one, you’ll be met with avant-garde plays and urban folklore in what promises to be a performance that’ll be a highlight of your time in Georgia.
5. Hunt for antiques at Dry Bridge Market
Running parallel to the Kura River in Old Town Tbilisi sits an eclectic open-air flea market selling an abundance of weird and wonderful memorabilia, trinkets, antiques, jewellery and more. In years gone by, residents of the city would come here selling their own belongings to make a little extra money but now it’s morphed into a huge affair with traders dealing in everything from Soviet-era coins and oil paintings, to stamps and sun-bleached books. It’s open from around 11am daily. Prepare to haggle.
6. Unwind at a sulphur bathhouse
Legend has it that the city’s sulphurous pools are the reason for Tbilisi’s very existence. According to legend, a mediaeval king, known by the name Vakhtang Gorgasali, stumbled across the hot springs while on a hunting expedition, he was so enamoured with the area that he decided to create a whole city around them – and so Tbilisi was born – its name roughly translating to ‘warm place’. Today, and especially during winter months, the few remaining bathhouses still provide a welcome retreat to colder days, and alternating between the hot and freezing pools is said to work wonders on the mind and body. Most of the remaining bathhouses are in the Old Tbilisi neighbourhood of Abanotubani, and while some are pretty spartan, others have been upgraded and have the option to add on massages, sauna, or a vigorous scrub down to exfoliate and rejuvenate. Try the very photogenic Chreli Abano, or stalwart Gulo’s Thermal Spa.
7. Find inspiration at MoMA
Spread over three floors Tbilisi’s Museum of Modern Art mostly showcases the work of Tbilisi-born Zurab Tsereteli, including many of his enormous figurative sculptures and wacky oil paintings, but an unmissable part of the collection is a permanent structure known as The Apple of Love. Located outside the main gallery, off Meskhia Street, the nine-metre-high artwork is reminiscent of India’s Khajuraho temple complex featuring erotic figures carved from bronze. MoMA’s revolving display of modern art often shows work by groundbreaking local female artists, previous exhibitions have included work by Georgian Lia Shvelidze and Dina Oganova, as well as Azerbaijani artist Aida Mahmudova.
8. Visit Sameba
Otherwise known as the Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi, Sameba is a must-visit attraction. Sitting high across the river, in the historic Avlabari neighbourhood, Sameba’s glimmering gold spire shines bright for the whole city to view. Decorated with mosaics, marble flooring and intricate frescos, its interior can accommodate up to 10,000 people making the landmark structure one of the largest cathedrals in the world. The cathedral’s own choir has studied and learnt a unique polyphonic chant dating all the way back to the Middle Ages, which if you get a chance to listen is unmissable. Otherwise, chanting makes up part of most services on Saturday or Sunday afternoons. Dress modestly.
9. Say hello to the Mother of Georgia
High up on Sololaki Hill, casting a watchful gaze over her city is the Mother of Georgia, a 20-metre tall aluminium monument designed by lauded Georgian sculptor Elguja Amashukeli. Dressed in traditional Georgian clothing the vast sculpture holds a cup of wine in one hand (for welcome guests) and a sword in the other (for the unwelcome ones, in reference to Georgia’s many previous oppressors). Built in 1958, the statue was erected to celebrate Tbilisi’s 1500th anniversary. Head up on foot, as it’s a pretty delightful trek – and certainly not as long as the hike up Mount Mtatsminda – but if you need an easier option, cable cars depart every few minutes from Rike Park.
10. Feel small next to Tbilisi’s gargantuan murals
Enormous, incredibly detailed murals are everywhere in this city, each one strategically painted on blank wall canvases in pretty much every neighbourhood. After three weeks traversing the city my favourites all seemed to be creations by either Case Maclaim, or Dante Mdante, one of which depicts a large-scale pair of hands peeling potatoes, painted with incredible detail. While Mdante captures attention by highlighting global climate issues. His large scale ‘White Rhino’ and ‘Polar Bear’ pieces comment on the fragility of our planet and the irreversible destruction, caused by humanity.
11. Try churchkhela at the Dezerter Bazaar
Upon first arriving in Georgia, I assumed the cylindrical colourful sticks I saw hanging everywhere – from roadside stalls to local markets – were candles, but quickly realised that it was in fact churchkhela, Georgia’s famed traditional candy. Homemade across the country, numerous recipes are adhered to depending on where they are from, but typically churchkhela includes freshly crushed grape juice, flour and nuts – almonds, walnuts, or hazelnuts are most common. The stick-like snack has a heavy texture but is incredibly delicious, and although is best sampled from country roadside stalls, Tbilisi’s fascinating and lively Dezerter Bazaar is a great place to pick some up in the city.