Hiking To Calanque d’En Vau In Southern France
/You’ve probably seen a photo of Calanque d’En Vau without knowing it’s on the coastline of mainland France, a few short miles from the major city of Marseille. The jewel-tone translucence of the water set against light limestone cliffs can feel just like a Greek Island scene from Mamma Mia!
There are 9 Calanques, or coastal inlets, that stretch along the mountainous coast between Marseille and La Ciotat, and when I decided to visit in June, 2019, I found a lot of varying information about how to best access them and precisely which of the Calanques to visit.
My logistical questions were as follows:
Are the Calanques open in the summer?
Should I visit the Calanques by foot or by boat?
Which Calanque should I choose?
Looking over Port-Miou calanque toward Cassis Bay
Are the Calanques open in summer?
I visited all sorts of official websites and not-so-official forums and got different stories, but from what I understand, the Calanques were given National Park status in 2012 and the dry, mountainous trails covering the land around them also suffered from fires in the recent years, all resulting in attempts to regulate access at risky times of the year. Also, some of the parking lots in the woods north of Cassis (and closer to d’En Vau) may or may not be closed due to various local complaints of overcrowding and/or car theft.
The truth appears to be some of the driving roads are closed from June to November near the Morgiou and Sormiou Calanques (those closest to Marseille). Fortunately, hiking trails to all Calanques remain open through the summer, but are subject to local closure depending on extreme daily conditions or limits set on total daily visitors. Check this website before your visit and show up early to be safe.
I visited Cassis, as many tourists do, and planned to access the Calanques from there. It was early June, and the weather was already an intensely sunny 80°F / 26°C. I had a rental car and drove down early in the morning from Aix-en-Provence, arriving in Cassis to park around 9 AM. I do believe an early arrival was key to both finding a good parking space and surviving the first part of the hike, before midday temperatures peaked.
Sailboats in the Cassis Bay
I chose a parking garage called “Mimosas” at 10 Avenue Augustin Isnard after researching the options around Cassis. It was modern, clean, and felt completely safe. I knew I wanted to spend some time in Cassis’ charming port after the hike, so I chose a lot that would keep me close to town and also allow me to easily swing by the Spar supermarket for water and snacks before the hike.
A note on hydration: I attended Colorado College and while living in Southern Colorado, I spent years hiking the arid, sunny trails of the American southwest. This experience made me insistent on staying properly hydrated, so I insisted my partner and myself each take two 16oz. water bottles on this hike. All I can say is this felt like it was the bare minimum once we began hiking. We were definitely rationing our water by the return trip.
Avenue Augustin Isnard in downtown cassis
Also, you can use the directions feature in Google Maps from your mobile device, set to “walking” mode and it will lead you on the proper hike to the beach at Calanque d’En Vau. I found it really helpful to have the Google Maps trail map on hand to provide peace of mind. Otherwise, it’s hard to go wrong as the trail is rather busy and you simply need to follow the trail signage of red & white stripes (see photo below).
Stay aware of trail markers. The trail to d’En Vau is shared with that of Port Pin
Should I Visit the Calanques by Foot or by Boat?:
You will have options to visit the Calanques by tour boat, kayak, or hiking trail from the town of Cassis. With previous hiking experience and a solid pair of sneakers, I knew I wanted the experience of arriving to the secluded beach by foot. (Plus, I had already taken a boat tour of the Calanques in 2003 and was anxious to get closer to the gorgeous cliffs and coastline).
I was surprised to see so many kayaks in the Calanques. If I were to go back for a third visit, I would choose to rent a kayak and see the coastline from yet another perspective. It seems like a nice compromise between a larger boat tour, and tramping into the Calanques by foot.
Several kayaks docked within the calanque at d’En Vau
Which Calanque To Choose?
After researching online articles and photos, then finally asking our B&B hosts in Provence, we confidently decided to visit d’En Vau. This is one of the hardest Calanques to access by foot, surrounded by some of the more extreme and tall cliff sides, all adding to my desire to visit. In addition, by visiting d’En Vau, you get to experience the town of Cassis and also pass by two other smaller Calanques on the trail, Port-Miou and Port Pin.
Last Leg before the trail opens at the d’En Vau beach
I already mentioned carrying plenty of water, but if you choose to hike into the Calanques, know it is a somewhat challenging hike that takes just under 2 hours each way. It will take you 30 minutes to reach the Port-Miou trail entrance from the center of Cassis, then another 35 minutes to reach Port Pin beach, and finally, another 45 minutes to reach d’En Vau. The most challenging section of this hike is the stretch between Port Pin and d’En Vau as it involves both an ascent and decent, on a trail containing many loose and slippery stones. Be careful on the decent, as there are a couple sections of narrow “bouldering” where you may have to lift yourself down a few spots, and on the busy Saturday I hiked, a couple sections were stressful due to the slow queue of people scrambling down at varying speeds.
Bright midday sun beating down upon the limestone cliffs near the beach at d’En Vau
But don’t be discouraged if you want to experience the hike for yourself! On the trail, I spotted a very pregnant solo hiker, teenagers carrying coolers, and even families with small children. You can probably do it, too. It’s worth it in the end when you’re resting on that perfect pebble beach.
Beach of the Calanque D’en Vau on a busy Saturday
After dedicating a large chunk of your day to this hike and you’re safely back in the town of Cassis, take a well-deserved rest at one of the touristy port-side cafes for a late lunch or some cold beverages! It’s impossible not to enjoy watching the colorful, bobbing sailboats in the harbor or get close to the water’s edge to spot sea creatures swimming by just below the surface.
Boats in the Bay of Cassis
