U Bein Bridge, Mandalay, Amarapura
The night before, a bit taken aback by the going out offer in Mandalay, we had dined in our window-less and air conditioned-less hotel room, choosing an unfussy menu of bananas and biscuits, for our next day in the former-former capital of Burma we made more optimistic plans: to see the sunset at U Bein Bridge and to have dinner at a European restaurant. Just for the heck of it.
The U Bein Bridge is perhaps the best reason to visit Mandalay. It is the longest (and oldest) teakwood bridge in the world, its 1000 pillars stretching over 1.2 km across Lake Taung Tha Man. More precisely it is located in a neighboring town, Amarapura, 10km from Mandalay, but when we visited, no hotel in that town had a license for foreign tourists. Surprising, if you think that Amarapura was also the capital of Burma in the 19th century (just before Mandalay), not at all surprising if you have already become accustomed to the reality of the ubiquitous poverty in Myanmar.
A crazy rumor claimed that you could take a bus from Mandalay to U Bein bridge. Some even declared that it would periodically leave from the intersection of 29th and 84th streets. And others swear that the ticket costs just 30 eurocents. If you read this somewhere on the internet and you think you could give it a try, better snap out of it, you silly goose, go to the hotel reception and ask for a taxi to take you there. Or grab a local tuk-tuk, if you’re in the mood for some haggling. You can thank us later for saving your time.
A friendly driver will pick you up at the agreed time from the hotel and deliver you pretty quickly at the foot of the bridge, in civilized conditions, telling you when and where to find him after sunset, for the trip back. Meanwhile you gaze at the herd of bus coaches and taxis parked near the bridge, at the tourist swarm on the U Bein bridge and especially at the boats that fight for the best shooting angles. All those selfies won't post themselves on Instagram! Cover me, honey, I'm going in!
If you manage to tune out the crowds, the place really offers a great experience: the bridge itself looks impressive (albeit a bit wobbly here and there), the landscape, the photogenic trees, the colors of the sky at sunset, the multitude of fishermen in the water, the locals who sell various trinkets and snacks or who simply cross the bridge on their daily route.
The tourists are a spectacle in their own right: primped girls gingerly carrying their precious selfie sticks (or walking selfie sticks in tow, shaped as boyfriends), seasoned photographers who have already figured out their best spot for the fiery solar event, and are not on, but next to the bridge, in the quagmire, hunting for a winning photograph, the tourist turned boat captain who directs all rowing hands on deck towards the best angle, among the great armada of boats in search of the same thing.
And when you thought that nothing could be added to the sunset fair, Buddhist monks clad in brick-red kasayas begin to appear on the bridge. Some may say that they are there for their evening stroll and quiet meditation time. Others (like, say, me) might maliciously think that they are like Bugs Bunny at the zoo, doing their obligatory tourist spot routine. It is perfectly true that photos of Buddhist monks crossing the U Bein bridge are the best stock material for "Visit Myanmar" postcards.
Don't expect to see the sunset as you would on a beach in Greece, from a cozy beach bar, enjoying a cocktail or a glass of wine. Poverty in Myanmar is ubiquitous, and U Bein is no exception. You can choose between a walk on the bridge (which had some gazebos where you could stop and sit, if you wanted), a boat ride or a shore walk. I for one would think twice about laying a picnic blanket, given the cleanliness of the place. And the bridge, silhouetting on the sunset sky is best seen from the neighbouring bog: you notice it by the density of tripods and professional cameras. And since we mentioned this, the phototrotter, in a sincere access, will now show you the reality behind the camera.
Extra tip from the phototrotter: the departure time indicated by bus and taxi drivers is about the same for all tourists, so at one point the whole herd will rush to the shore to be carried back to their hotels. Around this time, the colours of the sky might be having their spectacular peak, while the bridge crowds will slowly disperse, so you might want to wait 15-20 minutes over the agreed interval. And don't worry, the driver won't leave without his precious cargo :)
In conclusion, if you happen to find yourself in Mandalay (either going to or returning from Bagan, or because you are a candyman, or maybe because you foolishly thought the city is worth a visit), you really-really must save a few hours for a visit to U Bein bridge. It will be worth it.
Go check out many more photos in the gallery: U Bein Bridge.
For a quick preview just click through the slideshow below:
Original article written in Romanian in 2016.
