WO2006034982A1

WO2006034982A1 - Light-block concentrate with organic micropigments

Info

Publication number: WO2006034982A1
Application number: PCT/EP2005/054731
Authority: WO
Inventors: Svenja Pfeifer; Claudia Mundt
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2004-09-27
Filing date: 2005-09-21
Publication date: 2006-04-06
Also published as: DE102004047281A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for preparation of a cosmetic composition, characterised in that an O/W emulsion containing a) an aqueous phase, b) an oil phase, c) pigmented UV-light block filter d) water-soluble polymers, in addition to further optional cosmetic and/or dermatological agents, adjuncts and additives is dried by spray drying, freeze drying and/or drum drying.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

Sunscreen concentrate with organic micropigments

The present invention relates to a process for the preparation of a cosmetic preparation based on a dried O / W emulsion and to the process product.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in man. Even though the ideal of beauty has undergone changes over time, the pursuit of an impeccable appearance has always been the goal of man. An essential part of a beautiful and attractive appearance is the condition and appearance of the skin and the appendages of the skin, i. the hair and the nails.

The skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many functions (for example, for heat regulation and as a sense organ) is the barrier function, which prevents the drying of the skin (and thus ultimately the entire organism), probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of foreign substances and UV radiation. This barrier function is caused by the epidermis, which, as the outermost layer, forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At about one-tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

For the skin to fulfill its biological functions to the full extent, it needs regular cleaning and care. The cleaning of the skin serves the removal of

Dirt, sweat and residues of dead skin particles, which provide an ideal breeding ground for

Form pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products, usually creams,

Ointments or lotions, are usually used to moisturize and restore the skin. Often, agents that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce their premature aging (e.g., wrinkles, wrinkles) are added to them.

Skin care products usually consist of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only to a limited extent miscible, which are usually referred to as phases, and in which one of the two liquids is in the form of very fine droplets in the other Liquid is dispersed. Viewed externally and with the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, eg milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the reverse principle, whereby the basic character is determined by the oil.

The trend away from sophisticated paleness to "healthy, sporty brown skin" has been unbroken for years, and people are exposing their skin to sunlight, as it causes pigmentation in the sense of melanin formation, which has ultraviolet radiation from sunlight In addition to the acute injury (sunburn), long-term damage such as an increased risk of developing skin cancer due to excessive exposure to light from the UVB range (wavelength: 280-320 nm) occurs UVB and UVA radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which leads to numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions and leads to premature aging of the skin.

To protect the skin, therefore, a number of sunscreen filters have been developed that can be used in cosmetic preparations. These UVA and UVB filters are summarized in most industrialized countries in the form of positive lists such as Appendix 7 of the German Cosmetics Regulation.

Conventional cosmetic and / or dermatological emulsions, such as sunscreen creams or lotions, have a number of disadvantages due to their water content: ■ They are heavy-weight, which results in higher energy consumption and higher costs during transport.

■ They have a larger volume, resulting in lower transport capacities during transport.

■ In particular, low-viscosity emulsions are much more expensive to store and transport because the preparations can "leak". ■ The application concentrations of the ingredients (eg UV filter concentration and thus UV filter performance) are already given to the consumer. An individual adaptation to the conditions at the place of application are no longer possible.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art and to develop a "dry" emulsion and a method for producing the same.

Although such "instant emulsions" are known per se to the person skilled in the art, DE 102 54 334 and DE 102 54 335 describe "dry" emulsions containing sunscreen filters. However, these documents could just as little point the way to the present invention as WO 00/26280, WO 02/32563, WO 02/47624 and WO 02/047620.

A problem of dried emulsions is, in particular, the fact that the oil droplets coalesce during the drying of the emulsion. If the droplets coalesce, no emulsion forms on addition of water.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate the deficiencies of the prior art and to develop emulsions that dry easily and re-emulsify after re-addition of water.

The object is surprisingly achieved by a process for producing a cosmetic preparation, which comprises an O / W emulsion comprising a) an aqueous phase, b) an oil phase, c) pigmentary UV light protection filters and d) water-soluble polymers, optionally other cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, is dried by spray drying, freeze drying and / or drum drying, and by a cosmetic preparation prepared by this method.

The preparation prepared by this process is according to the invention. The objects are further achieved by the use of a combination of pigmentary UV photoprotective filters and water-soluble polymers for preparing by spray drying, freeze drying and / or drum drying dried re-emulsifiable O / W emulsions.

The inventive method for producing a cosmetic preparation according to the invention is advantageously characterized in that the dried emulsion is then mixed in a mixing device with water-soluble and / or volatile active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives.

The preparation prepared according to this preparation step is according to the invention.

Advantageously according to the invention, one or more granulating and / or tablet adjuvants can be added to the preparation.

According to the invention, the process for the preparation of a preparation, which is characterized in that the preparation according to the invention after the addition of one or more tablet excipients are mixed in a mixing device.

After the mixing process, according to the invention, tablets and / or granules can advantageously be prepared from the preparation in a further process step. This is done according to the invention advantageously characterized in that the preparation are pressed in a press to one or more tablets or granulated by means of suitable granulation.

A preparation prepared according to one of the above-described process steps may advantageously be used according to the invention for application as a cosmetic with water which may have a temperature of 20 to 100 ° C.

The preparation prepared according to this preparation step is according to the invention. Furthermore, it is according to the invention that the user applies the dried emulsion directly without further addition of water, for example as "body powder".

According to the invention, the pigmentary UV light protection filters according to the invention are advantageously used in a concentration of 0.5 to 35% by weight and preferably in a concentration of 2 to 15% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the O / W emulsion before drying or after the re-addition of water used.

Embodiments of the present invention that are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that one or more compounds selected from the group of the compounds 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (in particular 2,4 , 6-tribiphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine); 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine can be used.

According to the invention, the water-soluble polymers according to the invention are advantageously used in a concentration of 1 to 80% by weight and preferably in a concentration of 2 to 50% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the O / W emulsion before drying or after the additional addition of Water, used.

According to the invention, water-soluble polymers which are advantageous according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the group of water-soluble or dispersible film formers (for example polyurethanes,

Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate, Polyvinylpyrrolidone Vinyl Acetate PVP / VA,

Polyvinyl pyrrolidones (PVP), polyvinyl alcohols (e.g., Mowiol 18-88) and from the group of

Hydrocolloids (e.g., agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins,

Polyols, guar gum, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, polysaccharide N-alkyl urethanes, inulin carbamates, gelatin, casein, cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propylcellulose derivatives, polysaccharides, polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurates / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and ammonium polyacrylic dimethyltauramides, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides,

Polysilicic acids, clay minerals, zeolites, silicas, see below).

Hydrocolloids which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, methylcelluloses, which are referred to as the methyl ethers of cellulose. They are characterized by the following structural formula

in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the cellulose mixed ethers which are generally also referred to as methylcelluloses and, in addition to a dominating content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. Particularly preferred hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (HPMC) have an average molecular weight M _m <50,000 gmol ^"1 and are, for example, under the name Pharmacoat 603, Pharmacoat 606 and Pharmacoat 645 or under the name Metolose 65 SH 50 or Metolose 60 SH 50 in the FA Other preferred hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses are available under the trade name Methocel K100LV from Dow Chemicals or under the trade name Methocel E5 from Colorcon.

Also preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example those available under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethylcellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH 2 -COONa. Especially preferred is sodium carboxymethylcellulose, also known as cellulose gum, available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon.

Also advantageous according to the invention is the use of maltodextrin, preferably with a dextrose equivalent of 10-30, particularly preferably with a dextrose equivalent of 15-20. The use of gum arabic, for example, under the trade name spray gum, is also advantageous. Maltodextrin and gum arabic may be used singly or in admixture. According to the invention, the weight ratio of the raw material mixture is advantageously from 1:10 to 10: 1 and according to the invention preferably from 2:10 to 10: 2. According to the invention, the weight ratio of pigmentary UV light protection filters to water-soluble polymers is advantageously from 1:10 to 10: 1 and according to the invention preferably from 3:10 to 10: 3.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the present invention contains further UV filter substances.

Furthermore, the preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain UV sunscreen filter substances based on inorganic pigments. Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other water-insoluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (for example Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides and the barium sulfate (BaSO ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersants and / or solubilizers may advantageously be added to these pre-dispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments may advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), wherein, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is to be formed or retained.This surface treatment may consist in using a thin film according to methods known per se hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings may also contain water in the sense of the present invention.

Inorganic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention may consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: Alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ J ₆ , sodium meta-phosphate (NaPO ₃ J _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO ₄ ) or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ) Inorganic surface coatings may occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials. Organic surface coatings for the purposes of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane having an average molecular weight) Chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

The titanium dioxide pigments can be present both in the rutile and anatase crystal modifications and can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated") for the purposes of the present invention, with a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or retained This surface treatment may consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by processes known per se.The various surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.

Coated and uncoated titanium dioxides described in the present invention can also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersants and / or solubilizers may advantageously be added to these predispersions.

The titanium dioxides according to the invention are distinguished by a primary particle size of between 10 nm and 200 nm, particle sizes of from 10 nm to 100 nm being preferred according to the invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, particularly preferred titanium dioxides are the MT-100 Z and MT-100 TV from Tayca Corporation, Eusolex T-2000 and Eusolex T-AVO from Merck and the titanium dioxide T 805 from Degussa and the iron / titanium mixed oxide titanium dioxide T817 from Degussa ,

For the purposes of the present invention, zinc oxides can also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention are distinguished by a primary particle size of <300 nm and can be obtained from the following companies under the following trade names:

Particularly preferred zinc oxides in the context of the invention are the Z-Cote HP1 from BASF and the zinc oxide NDM from Haarmann & Reimer.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are, for example, those mentioned below which may be present in the water phase and / or the oil phase.

Advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalates), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylates), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3, 3-diphenyl acrylate (INCI: Octocrylene) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p Methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bisethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is available, for example, under the trade name Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which has been sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol ^® 1789 and sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Further advantageous UV-A filter substances in the context of the present invention are hydroxybenzophenones, which are distinguished by the following structural formula:

wherein

Cycloalkenyl, wherein the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they - R ¹ and R ² are independently hydrogen, Ci-C ₂ -alkyl, C ₃ -C ₀ cycloalkyl or C ₃ -C ₀ are bonded, can form a 5- or 6-membered ring and R ^{3 is} a C 1 -C ₂₀ -alkyl radical.

A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2 ¹ -hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which has the following structure:

and Uvinul A Plus is available from BASF.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Bisimidazylate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;

1, 4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo) bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also known as benzene-1, Benzo-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher sulfonic acid ( CAS No .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) - benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances which absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation. An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methyl-bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter in the context of the present invention is the 2- (2H-benzotriazole) -ylH-methyl-eP-methyl-S-ti.SSS-tetramethyl-i-trimethylsilyoxyldisiloxanyl] propyl] -phenol (CAS). No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are z. B .:

3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2-ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;

Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexyl butamido triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and

• polymer-bound UV filters, • homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalates) and

• 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate).

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances are: phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt (INCI:

Bisimidazylate, trade name: Neoheliopan AP),

Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexyl butamido triazone, trade name: Uvasorb HEB),

• 2- (4'-diethylamino-2 ¹ -hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone) (INCI: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, trade name: Uvinul A plus), (3Z) -1,7,7-trimethyl-3- (4-niethylbenzylidene) bicyclo [2.2.1] heptan-2-one (INCI: 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor, trade name: Eusolex 6300),

2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene, trade name: Uvinul N-539), benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) (INCI : Terephtalidene Dicampher sulfonic acid, trade name: Mexoryl SX),

2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-i - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl ] -phenol (INCI: Drometrizole Trisiloxane, trade name: Mexoryl XL). 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine having the (CAS No 288254-16-0, available at 3V Sigma under the

Trade name Uvasorb® K2A) in dissolved form.

Very particularly advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are:

2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate, trade name: Parsol MCX),

4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI: butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, tradename: Parsol 1789),

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (trade name: Eusolex 232).

Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular phenylene-1,4 bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Bisimidazylate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;

2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: aniso triazine, available at the trade name Tinosorb S) in dissolved form,

• 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Octyl Triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150) in dissolved form .

Dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexyl butamido triazone, trade name: Uvasorb HEB). According to the invention, these additional UV filter substances can advantageously be contained in a total concentration of from 0.01 to 20% by weight and, preferably, in a total concentration of from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the aqueous preparation.

The oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar lipids having a polarity <35 mN / m. Particularly advantageous lipids in the context of the present invention are all native lipids, such as. As olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like, and those listed below.

Of the hydrocarbons, in particular paraffin oil and further hydrogenated poly olefins such as hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane and squalene are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention. The content of the lipids is advantageously less than 50% by weight, preferably between 1 and 40% by weight, particularly preferably between 5 and 20% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the water-containing preparation.

If the lipid phase contains oil-soluble UV filter substances, it is advantageous to choose the content of the lipid phase less than 80% by weight, preferably between 1 and 40% by weight, particularly preferably between 5 and 30% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the water-containing preparation.

It may optionally be advantageous, although it is not mandatory, if the oil phase of the preparations according to the present invention also contains non-polar lipids.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may advantageously comprise customary cosmetic adjuvants, for example alcohols, in particular those of low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols of low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, Propanediol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, self-tanning agents and in particular one or more thickeners, which are advantageously chosen can be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for. As hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example Carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention may comprise one or more emulsifiers, it being possible to use for the O / W emulsifiers known for cosmetic emulsions.

According to the invention, however, preferred are O / W emulsions which are solids-stabilized and contain no O / W emulsifiers.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual. Particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention are preparations for Care of the skin: they may be used for cosmetic sunscreen, for cleaning or care of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. A further advantageous embodiment of the present invention is Af ter-Sun products.

According to their structure, water-containing cosmetic compositions in the sense of the present invention can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, day cream or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations.

It is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the water-containing preparations according to the invention are used as sunscreen agents. Also, the aqueous preparations according to the invention can be used according to the invention as preparations whose main purpose is not the protection from sunlight but which nevertheless contain a content of UV protective substances. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV-protective substances, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also represent an effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen agent are also favorable.

For use, the aqueous cosmetic preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for. Preservatives, preservatives, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing or increasing foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers which improve the feel on the skin, fats, oils, Waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives. Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available under the trade name Glydant ™ from Lonza), iodopropyl butylcarbamates (for example those sold under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S. From the company. Lonza available and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-hydroxy-benzoic acid alkyl esters, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butylparaben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like , According to the invention, the preserving system also advantageously also comprises preserving aids, such as, for example, ethylhexylglycerol, glycine soya, etc.

Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is obtainable, for example, under the trade name Octaquest from the company Octel, pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate, which, for example, B. under the trade name Dequest 2046 from the company. Monsanto is available and / or iminodisuccinic which u. a. Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (about 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 is permanently available.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when antioxidants are used as additives or active substances. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic applications can be used as inexpensive but nevertheless optional antioxidants.

Particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, water-soluble Antioxi¬ dantien can be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

Further preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives as well as vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hydrous preparation. If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or derivatives thereof, are the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous if their respective concentrations are in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous formulation to choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic active ingredients, preferred active substances being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.

Further advantageous active ingredients in the context of the present invention are natural active substances and / or their derivatives, such as. Alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, niacinamide, panthenol, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, camitine, camosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine and / or beta-alanine, and 8-hexadecene. 1, 16-dicarboxylic acid (dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2, provisional INCI name octadecenedioic acid) and / or licochalcone A.

Licochalcone can also be used advantageously as a constituent of herbal extracts, in particular of aqueous radix Glycyrrhizae inflatae.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic preparations contain 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.05 to 5% by weight, very particularly 0.01 to 2% by weight of an extract of Radix Glycyrrhizae inflatae, in each case on the total weight of the preparation.

It is particularly advantageous to start from an extract which is obtainable from Maruzen under the name Polyol Soluble Licorice Extract PU (INCI name Glycyrrhiza Inflata). The extract of Radix Glycyrrhizae inflatae contains about 25% licochalcone A.

Inventive formulations which z. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for protection against aesthetically unattractive skin lesions, as z. Skin aging (such as dryness, roughness, dryness wrinkles, itching, decreased refatting (eg, after washing), visible vascular dilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), slackness and wrinkle and wrinkle formation, localized hypersensitivity). , Hypo and false pigmentation (eg, age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg, cracking), and the like). Furthermore, they are advantageously suitable against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

The preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously contain self-tanning substances, for example dihydroxyacetone and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of from 1% by weight to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous preparation.

Further advantageously, the preparations according to the present invention may also contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like. Advantageous z. N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: meta-delphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: palatinol M, DMP), 1-piperidinecarboxylic acid 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-methylpropyl ester, and especially 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetyl-amino) -propionic acid ethyl ester (available from Merck under the tradename Insekt Repellent® 3535.) The repellents can be used either individually or in combination.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which give cosmetic preparations the property, after application or distribution on the skin surface, to reduce the moisture release of the hom layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or to positively influence the hydration of the initial layer ,

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, methylpropanediol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or with To use the aid of water gellable polysaccharides. Hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, for example, which are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 of the company SOLABIA SA is available. Moisturizers may advantageously also be used as anti-wrinkle agents for protecting cosmetic skin changes, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. occur during skin aging, can be used.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention may also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which are e.g. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or enhance a velvety or silky feel on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenylsuccinate and the like), pigments which have neither chiefly UV filter nor coloring action (such as, for example, US Pat. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosils ^® (CAS no. 7631-86-9).

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. All quantities, proportions and percentages are, unless stated otherwise, based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

Examples

Emulsion preparations after spray / freeze / drum drying:

Claims

claims

1. A process for the preparation of a cosmetic preparation, which comprises an O / W emulsion comprising a) an aqueous phase, b) an oil phase, c) pigmentary UV light protection filters and d) water-soluble polymers, optionally further cosmetic and / or dermatologischen Wirk-, Hilfs¬ and additives, by spray drying, freeze drying and / or drum drying is dried.

2. Cosmetic preparation prepared by a process according to claim 1.

3. A process for the preparation of a cosmetic preparation, characterized in that an O / W emulsion according to any one of claims 1 or 2 in a mixing device with water-soluble and / or volatile active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives is mixed.

4. Preparation prepared by a process according to claim 3.

5. A preparation comprising an O / W emulsion according to any one of claims 2 or 4 and one or more granulation and / or tablet excipients.

6. A process for the preparation of a preparation according to claim 5, characterized in that an O / W emulsion according to one of claims 2 or 4 with one or more

Tablet excipients are mixed in a mixing device.

7. Preparation prepared by a process according to claim 6.

8. A process for the preparation of tablets and / or granules, characterized in that a preparation according to claim 7 pressed in a press to one or more tablets or granulated by means of suitable granulation.

9. Preparation prepared by a process according to claim 8.

10. A process for the preparation of a cosmetic formulation, characterized in that a preparation according to any one of claims 2, 4, 5, 7 and / or 9 are mixed with water.

11. Cosmetic formulation prepared by a process according to claim 10.

12. A method or preparation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as pigmentary UV light protection filter one or more compounds selected from the group of compounds 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine; 2,4,6-tris- (terphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine.